Guide to Sewing with Rayon Fabric
Guide for Sewing with Rayon Fabric
Today we are going to talk about the soft and silky-smooth aspects of rayon fabric and maybe a few details you weren't aware of. Let's look a little bit more in depth, shall we?
Sewing with Rayon Fabric
What is Rayon?
Rayon was actually created as an alternative to silk sometime during the 1800's making it a more cost-effective option to that of real silk for its time. It is a semi-synthetic material that is made from wood pulp. Even though it is derived from natural fibers, it does require certain chemicals during the soaking process, so it is not considered a 100% natural material.
Types of Rayon
Rayon can be a woven or a knit blend such as:
- Rayon viscose, modal, spandex, tencel, bamboo, challis, crepe etc.
A rayon knit blend with some of the above options allows it to have elasticity (stretch) for a more comfortable fitting garment.
Rayon Characteristics
This material is lightweight and flowy as well as soft and smooth which is why it works so well for warmer attire. It takes to dye very well which could add an interesting detail to corroborate your style.
Uses for Rayon
Rayon fabric offers excellent drape making it a great choice for spring or summer dresses, tops, skirts, culottes and more. It is also used in the medical field for various items, home decor, as well as industrial applications.
Rayon Care
Rayon should be washed by hand or on a gentle wash cycle to best protect the fibers. It is the most delicate when wet. Wash on cold with a mild detergent, no bleach and lay flat to air dry or low heat in the dryer for best results. Rayon does not take to high heat very well so be mindful of that when working with it- dryer, iron etc.
Sewing with Rayon Fabric
Now that we have learned a little bit about rayon fabric and its qualities, let's sew up a project with it. I chose a woven rayon challis for this tutorial and we will be sewing up the women's culotte pattern from peek-a-boo pattern shop.
Supplies:
- The women's culotte pattern from peek-a-boo pattern shop
- Rayon fabric of your choice
- 1.5" or 2" elastic
- Sewing machine, coordinating thread, iron, scissors, pins or clips, ruler
This pattern features two different length options- 16" or 20" as well as optional pockets and an elastic encased waistband.
If using a woven rayon, you will want to finish off your seam allowances as we sew.
I omitted the pockets for mine. Please see pattern directions for those steps.
Step one: Front and back pieces
Take one front and one back piece and place them with right sides together. Pin or clip along the side seam and sew using a 1/2" seam allowance.
The side seam has been sewn. Repeat for the other front and back piece.
Take the two pieces we have created and place them right sides together. The back rise with the notches together and the two fronts without the notches together.
Sew the front and back inseam together.
Step two: Hemming
Hem using your preferred method. I chose to do a lettuce hem and I did this step just before sewing the crotch inseam for a clean finish.
Step Three: Woven Waistband
Fold both of the waistband pieces in half and press flat.
Unfold the pressed pieces and fold the straight bottom edge (without the notch) up towards the wrong side 1/2" and press. Repeat for the other waistband piece.
Unfold the newly pressed edges and pin or clip the waistband pieces together with right sides and sew the two short ends.
Slide the waistband over the culottes with right sides together. Match the side seams as well as the front and back. Clip or pin in place and sew the waistband to the culottes.
Now, we will refold that pressed edge we made to cover/enclose the waistband seam. Pin in place and topstitch the bottom edge. Mark and leave a 2" opening in the back of the waistband for the elastic.
Cut your elastic according to size (chart in the instructions) and slide it through the 2" hole with a safety pin. Overlap the elastic edges once through and secure.
I added a small piece of folded over ribbon to remind me of the backside verses the front. This is an optional tip but I really thought it was a good idea in the instructions to add! Topstitch the 2" gap closed.
Step Four: Topstitching the Waistband
Stretch the waistband elastic flat and sew two rows of topstitches using a long, straight stitch.
The women's culottes are now complete!
Front view.
Back view.
I really love how these fit and feel. The rayon challis fabric makes them breezy and flowy to wear. The drape is flattering. It's perfect for chasing the kids around in while still looking nice and staying cool. The pattern comes together quickly and I always love a pattern that can be made in knit or woven fabrics.
So, we have learned that rayon can be woven or knit. It has excellent drape, it is soft to the skin, it is a great option for warmer weather attire, and it makes a really nice pair of women's culottes!
This same pattern can also be found in kid's sizes if you want to coordinate or make a pair for a child. It is the perfect mix of dressy, yet playful style and rayon fabric is a great option to try it out with.
I plan on making myself some summer dresses using a few different rayon spandexes here soon. I have made pj's out of rayon modal and they are the softest, most comfortable pj's I own! Rayon viscose and bamboo are buttery soft, but I also love to work with wovens too and rayon challis is an inexpensive fabric available on the market today.
What type of rayon will you pick out for your next project?