Softshell fabric is the ultimate performance fabric for outdoor enthusiasts, combining weather protection with breathability and comfort. Unlike traditional heavy outerwear fabrics that can feel stiff and restrictive, softshell offers the perfect balance of protection, mobility, and comfort - keeping you dry and warm during outdoor activities without feeling bulky or causing overheating.
Whether you're hitting the slopes, hiking mountain trails, cycling in unpredictable weather, or simply need a warm stadium blanket for outdoor sporting events, softshell fabric delivers the technical performance you need with the comfort you want. This is the fabric that serious outdoor gear is made from!
What is Softshell Fabric?
Softshell is a sophisticated three-layer technical fabric specifically engineered to protect your body from weather elements while providing exceptional breathability, comfort, and freedom of movement. This makes softshell ideal for activewear designed for outdoor activities such as winter sports, hiking, cycling, running, and outdoor work where you need weather protection without sacrificing mobility or comfort.
The "softshell" name refers to the fact that this fabric is more flexible and comfortable than "hardshell" fabrics (which are stiffer, more waterproof materials used for extreme weather conditions). Softshell strikes the perfect balance between protection and comfort, making it the go-to choice for active outdoor pursuits in moderate weather conditions.
The Three-Layer Construction Explained
What makes softshell fabric so effective is its intelligent three-layer construction. Each layer serves a specific purpose, working together to create a fabric that protects, breathes, and comforts:
Layer 1: The Outer Shell (Weather Protection)
The outermost layer is typically made from polyester and/or other synthetic materials that are tightly woven to create a durable, weather-resistant surface. This layer is:
- Water-Repellent: Treated with DWR (Durable Water Repellent) finish that causes water to bead up and roll off rather than soaking in. While not fully waterproof, it provides excellent protection against light rain, snow, and moisture.
- Wind-Resistant: The tight weave blocks wind from penetrating through to your body, preventing wind chill.
- Stretchy: Often includes spandex or has a mechanical stretch that allows freedom of movement during active pursuits.
- Abrasion-Resistant: Durable enough to withstand contact with branches, rocks, and other outdoor hazards.
Layer 2: The Membrane (Breathability & Insulation)
The middle layer acts like a breathable membrane - often described as having a "memory foam-like" quality. This layer is the technical heart of softshell fabric, providing:
- Breathability: Allows moisture vapor (sweat) to escape from inside while preventing water from entering from outside. This keeps you dry from both external weather and internal perspiration.
- Insulation: Provides some warmth without bulk, trapping air to maintain body temperature.
- Weather Protection: Works with the outer layer to block wind and moisture while managing internal humidity.
Layer 3: The Fleece Backing (Comfort & Warmth)
The innermost layer is a soft fleece material that:
- Provides Comfort: Feels soft and pleasant against skin or over base layers.
- Adds Warmth: The fleece traps warm air next to your body for insulation.
- Wicks Moisture: Pulls sweat away from your skin to keep you dry and comfortable.
- Prevents Chafing: Smooth, soft surface doesn't irritate skin during movement.
Softshell Weight Varieties
Softshell fabric comes in different weights to suit various activity levels and weather conditions:
Lightweight Softshell
Thinner, more breathable, and less insulating. Perfect for high-intensity activities where you'll be generating a lot of body heat (running, cycling, climbing). Best for cool to mild weather or as a layering piece. More packable and easier to move in, but provides less warmth and weather protection.
Midweight Softshell (Most Common)
The sweet spot for most outdoor activities and general wear. Balances breathability with warmth and weather protection. Suitable for moderate activity levels in cool to cold weather. This is what most softshell jackets and pants are made from.
Heavyweight Softshell
Maximum warmth and weather protection with slightly reduced breathability. Best for cold weather, lower-intensity activities, or when you need extra insulation. Thicker fleece backing provides superior warmth. Great for winter work wear or very cold conditions.
Why Choose Softshell Fabric?
- Weather Protection - Water-repellent and wind-resistant outer layer
- Breathability - Prevents overheating and moisture buildup during activity
- Comfort - Soft fleece interior feels great against skin
- Warmth Without Bulk - Insulating without being heavy or restrictive
- Freedom of Movement - Stretchy, flexible construction for active use
- Durability - Abrasion-resistant exterior stands up to outdoor wear
- Versatility - Works for wide range of activities and conditions
- Quick-Drying - Synthetic materials dry faster than natural fibers
- Easy Care - Machine washable and durable
- Professional Performance - Same fabric used in high-end outdoor gear
What Can You Make with Softshell Fabric?
Outdoor Activewear
- Jackets and coats (zip-up, pullover, hooded)
- Vests and gilets
- Snow pants and ski pants
- Softshell pants for hiking/climbing
- Mittens and gloves (Mistletoe Mittens pattern works perfectly!)
- Winter hats and ear warmers
- Neck gaiters and face masks
- Cycling jackets and pants
- Running jackets
- Work pants and jackets
Outdoor Gear
- Stadium blankets for sporting events
- Picnic blankets
- Camp blankets
- Dog coats and pet wear
- Equipment covers
- Gear bags
Frequently Asked Questions About Softshell Fabric
Is softshell fabric waterproof?
Softshell is water-REPELLENT, not waterproof. There's an important distinction! The DWR (Durable Water Repellent) coating causes light rain, snow, and moisture to bead up and roll off the surface rather than soaking in. This provides excellent protection against light to moderate precipitation and wet conditions. However, in heavy rain or prolonged exposure to water, moisture will eventually penetrate. For truly waterproof protection in heavy rain, you would need a hardshell fabric. Softshell excels in mixed conditions where you need some weather protection but also breathability for active use - it won't leave you feeling clammy and sweaty like fully waterproof fabrics can.
How do I care for softshell fabric?
Machine wash softshell in COLD water with MILD DETERGENT. This is critical: DO NOT use fabric softeners or bleach! Fabric softeners and bleach will break down the DWR (water-repellent) coating and the breathable membrane, destroying the technical properties that make softshell fabric special. After washing, tumble dry on LOW heat or hang to air dry. The low heat from the dryer can actually help reactivate the DWR coating. Never use high heat. Over time, the DWR coating may wear off - you can restore it by washing the garment and then applying a spray-on or wash-in DWR treatment (available at outdoor gear stores).
What's the difference between softshell and hardshell?
Softshell and hardshell are designed for different purposes. Softshell is flexible, comfortable, breathable, and offers moderate weather protection - perfect for active use in variable conditions where you're moving and generating heat. Hardshell is stiffer, fully waterproof, and designed for maximum protection in extreme weather (heavy rain, harsh winds, extreme cold) but is less breathable and can feel clammy during high activity. Think of softshell as your everyday active outdoor jacket and hardshell as your emergency storm protection. Many outdoor enthusiasts own both and choose based on conditions.
Do I need to pre-wash softshell before sewing?
Yes, always pre-wash softshell fabric before cutting and sewing! Even though softshell is synthetic and won't shrink as much as natural fibers, it can still experience some dimensional change. Pre-washing also removes any manufacturing residues and allows you to test the fabric's behavior. Wash in cold water with mild detergent (no fabric softeners!), then dry on low heat or air dry. This ensures your finished garment will maintain its size and shape after washing.
What needles should I use for sewing softshell?
Use a universal needle or microtex/sharp needle in size 80/12 or 90/14 depending on the thickness of your specific softshell fabric. Lightweight softshell works well with 80/12, while heavyweight softshell may need 90/14 or even 100/16. Use a fresh, sharp needle - dull needles can damage the water-repellent coating and create permanent holes. Polyester or all-purpose thread works well. Some sewists prefer a slightly longer stitch length (3.0mm-3.5mm) to prevent the fabric from puckering and to allow some give in the seams.
Can I sew softshell on a regular sewing machine?
Yes! Softshell sews beautifully on a regular domestic sewing machine. Despite being a technical, multi-layer fabric, it cuts easily and feeds through the machine smoothly. It's actually easier to work with than many other outdoor fabrics. Just make sure to use an appropriate needle and avoid pulling or stretching the fabric as you sew. A walking foot can help feed the layers evenly if you're working with particularly thick softshell or multiple layers.
Does softshell fabric stretch?
It depends on the specific construction. Some softshell fabrics include spandex/elastane and have mechanical stretch (usually 2-way or 4-way stretch), making them excellent for athletic activities requiring a full range of motion. Other softshell fabrics have little to no stretch and are more suited for structured jackets and outerwear. Check the specific fabric listing for stretch information. The fleece backing typically has some give, so even non-stretch softshells have more flexibility than rigid woven fabrics.
How warm is softshell fabric?
Warmth varies by weight. Lightweight softshell provides minimal insulation and is best for high-intensity activities or as a layering piece. Midweight softshell offers moderate warmth suitable for cool to cold weather with light to moderate activity. Heavyweight softshell provides significant warmth for cold weather or lower-intensity activities. Softshell is designed to work as part of a layering system - you can wear it over base layers and under a hardshell for maximum adaptability to changing conditions. The fleece lining provides cozy warmth without the bulk of traditional insulated jackets.
Can I use softshell for summer clothing?
Softshell is primarily a cool to cold weather fabric. The insulating fleece lining and weather-resistant construction make it too warm for hot summer weather. However, lightweight softshell can work for cool summer evenings, early morning activities, or high-altitude summer hiking where temperatures drop. For summer activewear, consider athletic fabrics, stretch woven activewear, or breathable wovens instead.
How do I seam seal softshell?
Most softshell projects don't require seam sealing because the fabric is water-repellent rather than waterproof. However, if you want extra protection for critical seams (like shoulder seams on a jacket), you can use seam sealing tape designed for outdoor gear. Apply it to the wrong side of the seam following the manufacturer's instructions. For best results, use a product specifically designed for breathable fabrics so you don't compromise the breathability that makes softshell special.
Why is softshell fabric more expensive than other fabrics?
Softshell's three-layer construction and technical features (water repellency, breathability, fleece backing) require specialized manufacturing processes and materials. The DWR coating, breathable membrane, and bonded layers all add to production costs. Additionally, softshell is made from high-quality synthetic materials designed for durability and performance. However, purchasing fabric by the yard and making your own gear is still significantly less expensive than buying finished softshell jackets or pants from outdoor retailers! Plus, you can make smaller projects like mittens or hats with minimal yardage, making it more affordable to try.
Essential Sewing Tips for Softshell
- Always pre-wash - Removes manufacturing residue and prevents later shrinkage
- Use sharp needles - Universal or microtex 80/12 or 90/14
- Fresh needles for each project - Prevents damage to water-repellent coating
- Longer stitch length - Try 3.0-3.5mm to prevent puckering
- Don't pull or stretch - Let fabric feed naturally through machine
- Clips over pins - Pins can leave permanent holes in coated surface
- Walking foot helpful - Feeds multiple layers evenly
- Sharp scissors or rotary cutter - Softshell cuts easily like butter
- Test seam finishes - Choose appropriate finish for your project
- Start with small projects - Mittens or hats let you test before committing to jacket
- Polyester thread - Works well with synthetic softshell fabric
- Consider topstitching - Adds professional look and extra durability
Understanding Water Repellency vs. Waterproofing
It's important to understand the difference between water-repellent (softshell) and waterproof (hardshell) fabrics:
Water-Repellent (Softshell)
- Water beads up and rolls off surface
- Protects against light to moderate rain, snow, splashes
- Eventually water will penetrate in heavy/prolonged exposure
- Highly breathable - moisture vapor escapes easily
- Comfortable for active use without feeling clammy
- Perfect for variable weather conditions
Waterproof (Hardshell)
- No water penetration even in heavy rain
- Sealed seams prevent any moisture entry
- Less breathable - can feel sweaty during activity
- Stiffer, less comfortable for extended wear
- Best for extreme weather/emergency protection
When to Choose Softshell: Active outdoor pursuits in cool to cold weather, variable conditions, when breathability matters, everyday outdoor wear, activities where you'll be moving and generating heat.
Caring for Softshell Long-Term
To maintain softshell's performance over time:
- Wash only when needed - Over-washing wears out DWR coating
- Store properly - Hang or fold in cool, dry place away from direct sunlight
- Reapply DWR coating - When water stops beading, reapply spray-on or wash-in DWR
- Repair small tears promptly - Use repair patches designed for outdoor gear
- Avoid fabric softeners ALWAYS - This cannot be emphasized enough!
- Air out after use - Prevents odor buildup and moisture accumulation
- Low heat or air dry only - High heat damages synthetic materials
Softshell Fabric Varieties
Solid Colors
Classic solid colors perfect for versatile outdoor wear: black, navy, royal blue, charcoal, army green. These are the most popular for jackets, vests, and pants as they pair with everything and don't show dirt as easily.
Printed Softshell
Fun prints for kids' gear and statement pieces: animals (horses, bears, unicorn kitties, space dinos), novelty patterns (construction sites, Vikings), florals, tie-dyes, rainbow designs, watercolor patterns. Perfect for making distinctive mittens, hats, and kids' jackets that stand out!
Softshell vs Other Outdoor Fabrics
Softshell vs Water-Repellent Woven
Water-repellent woven fabrics offer weather protection but lack the fleece lining and insulation of softshell. They're typically thinner, less warm, and more suited for light jackets and windbreakers. Softshell is warmer and more substantial.
Softshell vs Sweatshirt Fleece
Sweatshirt fleece is warm and comfortable but has no weather protection - it will absorb water when wet and offers no wind resistance. Softshell combines fleece-like comfort on the inside with weather protection on the outside.
Softshell vs Quilted Outerwear
Quilted outerwear fabric provides insulation through batting/wadding between layers. It's typically warmer but bulkier than softshell and doesn't breathe as well. Softshell is more packable and better for active use.
Peek-a-Boo Patterns Perfect for Softshell
- Mistletoe Mittens - The PERFECT first softshell project! Quick to sew (about 20 minutes), uses minimal fabric (1/4 yard makes one pair!), and sizes from infant to adult. Great for testing softshell before committing to a jacket. The pattern was featured in our blog tutorial and works beautifully without lining thanks to softshell's fleece backing.
- Jacket Patterns - Any jacket pattern designed for non-stretch or minimal-stretch wovens
- Vest Patterns - Perfect for layering pieces
Softshell Brands We Carry
- Apparel Basics - Quality solid softshell in versatile colors
- Euro Imports - Specialty prints and unique designs
- KnitFabric.com - Exclusive softshell prints
When to Choose Softshell
Softshell is perfect when you need:
- Weather protection during outdoor activities
- Breathability to prevent overheating during exercise
- Warmth without bulk or weight
- Comfort and freedom of movement
- Versatile fabric for variable weather conditions
- Durable outdoor gear that lasts
- Professional-quality activewear at home-sewn prices
- Wind and water resistance for everyday outdoor wear
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Why Buy Softshell from KnitFabric.com?
- Quality Brands: Apparel Basics, Euro Imports, KnitFabric.com exclusives
- Three-Layer Construction: Water-repellent outer, breathable membrane, fleece lining
- Multiple Weights: Light, mid, and heavyweight options
- Solid Colors & Fun Prints: Versatile solids and unique printed designs
- Technical Performance: Same fabric used in high-end outdoor gear
- Half-Yard Increments: Purchase exactly what you need for your project
- Perfect for Outdoor Gear: Jackets, pants, mittens, blankets, and more
- Fast Shipping: Flat rate shipping on all orders
- Fresh Inventory: Quality outdoor fabrics in stock
- Expert Support: Our team can help you choose the right weight and variety
Shop our complete collection of softshell fabric by the yard and create professional-quality outdoor gear, warm winter accessories, and durable activewear for all your adventures!
Questions about which softshell weight is best for your project? Contact us—we're here to help you choose the perfect technical fabric!
