Guide to Quilting Cotton
How to Sew Clothing Using Quilting Cotton
Did you know that you can sew garments using quilting cotton? Maybe you thought it was just for "quilting" purposes only? Well, you can sew clothes using quilting cotton and I'll show you what I created using it in this article! First, let's take a quick look at what qualities quilting cotton has to offer, shall we?
Also, be sure to check out our Quilting Cotton Fabric Section here at KnitFabric.com.
What is Quilting Cotton?
Made from 100% cotton, quilting cotton is a sturdy, medium weight fabric of plain weave that is durable and won't pill. It maintains its shape well, therefore when used for clothing it will offer body and structure due to its stiffness. Not to be confused with apparel cotton which is typically of a lighter weight and doesn't hold up as long when compared to that of quilting cotton.
Brief History of Quilting Cotton
I grew up watching my great grandmother making quilts for people. Every time we went to visit her, she would show us her latest quilt project and who she was making it for. At the time, I had no idea what she was talking about as she would describe the techniques or how her gifting all of her granddaughters and great granddaughters sewing machines would personally impact me and the path I would take. I still have the machine and the quilt that she made special for me as a child, and it has held up perfectly!
Quilting cotton has served many purposes in the past specifically during times of war. Soldiers would wear quilted layers under their armor for protection and warmth. Quilts also held some major significance. It's said that certain styles of quilts were used as signal pieces during the underground railroad. Today, quilting is more of a hobby rather than out of a necessity like in times past. There is so much history around the use of quilting cotton and I find it quite fascinating to be honest.
Things to Consider When Picking Out Your Fabric
When choosing your fabric for your next project, keep in mind the design of the fabric. Different shapes or colors may look good on the bolt, but would the design look good on a garment? Would you feel comfortable wearing it?
The weight and quality are always an important factor as well. If you hold the fabric up to the light and the light shines through pretty easily; that means the thread count is lower. It also won't feel as smooth compared to fabric with a higher thread count. Think of it like bedding. The higher the thread count, the softer the sheets.
Should I Pre-Wash Quilting Cotton?
Absolutely! Since it is made from 100% cotton, you will want to remove as much shrinkage as possible before garment construction. It typically can be found in 40-44" width bolts, though it can be wider. Be sure to factor that in when you're looking to make a fabric purchase to account for the pattern requirements. Also, keep in mind that certain colors will bleed in the wash such as red for example. Washing with a mild detergent and cool cycle while drying on a low heat setting should do well.
Tips for Preparing Your Quilting Cotton:
- Wash and Dry
- Iron before you begin to remove the wrinkles
- Cotton or polyester thread
- Use a quilting, microtex or universal needle 75/11 or 80/12
What Kind of Garments Can I Make?
Feel free to experiment with what you would like, to see what does and doesn't work for you. Here is a brief summary of the general list of garments that can be made from quilting cotton:
- PJ bottoms
- Flowy, loose skirts and pants with elastic casings
- Square or boxy tops such as tunics
- Summer dresses
Quilting cotton can also be used for home good items and crafts as well.
How to Sew a Dress Using Quilting Cotton
The wildflower dress from peek-a-boo is designed for woven fabrics that offers many options to choose from such as varying sleeve lengths, skirt and bodice styles plus more. It's a classic design that is sure to meet your needs for any occasion and quilting cotton can be used for this pattern.
For this tutorial, I will be sewing the sweetheart neck view with puff sleeves, twirl skirt and a sash.
Supplies
The wildflower dress from peek-a-boo is designed for woven fabrics that offers many options to choose from such as varying sleeve lengths, skirt and bodice styles plus more. It's a classic design that is sure to meet your needs for any occasion and quilting cotton can be used for this pattern.
For this tutorial, I will be sewing the sweetheart neck view with puff sleeves, twirl skirt and a sash.
- Wildflower dress pattern from peek-a-boo patterns
- Quilting cotton
- Thread, iron, ruler, pins or clips
- Buttons or snaps
- Iron on interfacing
- 1/4" elastic
The pattern pieces are cut out and we're ready to begin sewing the wildflower dress using quilting cotton. As always, when working with woven, be sure to finish your seam allowances to prevent fraying.
Step One: Interfacing
First, we will add a one-inch strip of interfacing 1/2" away from the left and right center edges of each back piece. Set aside for now.
Step Two: Sash
Fold the sash in half with wrong sides together and press the long edges.
Line up the bottom raw edges and baste in place. If you would like to topstitch the top of the sash you may do that now. I chose to topstitch mine down.
Basting and topstitching complete.
With right sides together, fold the sash in half. Sew along the long edges and then a 45-degree angle on the short end. Trim the seam allowance.
Edges trimmed.
Turn the sash right side out and press.
Topstitch along the finished edges.
Baste the short edges to each side seam on the front bodice piece making sure the tops edges are aligned.
I clipped the rest of the sash together with clips to keep it out of the way for the following steps.
Step Three: Puff Sleeves
Place the shoulders and side seams right sides together for both the main and the lining bodices and sew using a 1/2" seam allowance. Press the seams open.
Picture of the side seams pressed.
Press the lining up towards the wrong side 1/2 an inch and press. Unfold the crease.
Turn the main bodice right side out and slide it inside the bodice lining so that the right sides are together.
Sew both pieces together along the center back and neckline. Clip the seam allowance around the neck and back corner.
Turn the bodice right side out and press.
Baste around the arm openings.
Press the bottom edge of the sleeves up 1/4" towards the wrong side.
And then fold over another 1/2" and press.
Unfold the creases we just pressed for our sleeve hemline and fold the sleeves together with right sides. Sew the sleeve inseam.
Refold the sleeve hem and topstitch in place leaving a 1/2" opening to thread your elastic through.
Overlap the elastic ends after threading the elastic through and sew. Topstitch the opening closed.
Sew two rows of basting stitches along the top edge of the sleeve and pull the threads to gather the sleeve to match the arm opening.
Turn the bodice inside out and with right sides together pin or clip the sleeves to the arm openings aligning the inseams. Sew in place.
It fits and he'll have some room to grow in it over the summer months. It looks so cute on him!
What will you sew using Interlock knit fabric? Whatever it is, be sure to check out our Interlock Fabric Section.
Step Three: Twirl Skirt
Sew the two back skirt pieces with right sides together and stop sewing 2" before you reach the top.
Press the seam open.
Next, we will sew the front and back skirt pieces together.
Step Four: Hemming
Press the bottom edge of the skirt up 1/4" and then another 1/4". Topstitch the skirt hem.
Step Five: Finishing the Dress
Sew two rows of basting stitches around the top edge of the skirt. Pull the threads and gather to match the width of the bodice.
With right sides together, slide the bodice into the skirt. Line up the side seams and sew the outside of the bodice to the skirt, while making sure to keep the lining out of the way and unsewn.
Refold the bottom edge of the lining and pin in place covering the seam allowance from the previous step. Topstitch in place.
Topstitch around the neckline.
As well as the back opening.
Now it's time to add the snaps! If you would like to add buttons instead, you may.
Snaps attached. It's ready to try on!
This wildflower dress is extra special for her. She played a part in the overall design and picked out her favorite options. She looks so beautiful in her new dress! I'm already envisioning a pretty Christmas dress in the coming months using the wildflower pattern. This dress is versatile for any season and can take on a different look one from the other with the many options to choose from.
The quilting cotton worked wonderfully and was very stable and a breeze to sew and work with. I hope you get the chance to try your own hand at using quilting cotton for your next garment project so you can experience it firsthand while keeping in mind the tips we learned at the beginning of this article.