Cotton lycra fabric is the most popular type of knit fabric at KnitFabric.com, and for good reason. This versatile fabric combines the breathability of natural cotton with the stretch and recovery of lycra (spandex), making it perfect for everything from leggings and t-shirts to dresses and activewear. With 4-way stretch and a soft hand, cotton lycra jersey is comfortable to wear and easy to sew, making it ideal for both beginners and experienced sewers. Our cotton lycra fabric collection features hundreds of prints and solids in various weights and lycra percentages. Most of our fabrics are 95% cotton and 5% lycra, providing excellent stretch recovery while maintaining the breathable comfort of cotton. The edges will curl toward the right side when cut and stretched, which is normal for this fabric type. Browse our selection below to find the perfect cotton lycra fabric for your next sewing project.
Uses: Leggings, t-shirts, dresses, undergarments, leotards, pajamas, hoodies, yoga wear, activewear, children's clothing, and more
Care: Wash cold, tumble dry low. Always pre-wash and dry before sewing
Stretch: 4-way stretch
Fabric Content: Typically 95% cotton, 5% lycra (spandex)
Cotton lycra fabric (also called cotton spandex fabric or jersey knit fabric) is one of the most versatile and beginner-friendly fabrics for sewing stretchy garments. Whether you're making leggings, t-shirts, or dresses, understanding this fabric will help you achieve professional results.
Cotton lycra combines natural cotton fibers with elastane (lycra/spandex) to create a fabric that stretches comfortably and returns to its original shape. This makes it ideal for fitted garments that need to move with your body while maintaining their form throughout the day.
What is Cotton Lycra Fabric?
Cotton lycra fabric is a blend of natural cotton and synthetic elastane fibers (commonly known as lycra or spandex). The cotton provides breathability, softness, and comfort, while the lycra adds stretch and recovery. This combination creates a fabric that's perfect for form-fitting garments that need to stretch and move with the body.
Fun fact: Lycra, spandex, and elastane are all the same fiber - lycra is just the brand name! You'll see all three terms used interchangeably in the fabric industry.
Understanding Cotton Lycra Fabric Content
The fiber content is typically shown as a ratio, such as 95/5, 97/3, or 93/7. The first number represents the percentage of cotton, and the second number is the percentage of lycra. A higher lycra percentage means better stretch recovery - the fabric will bounce back to its original shape more effectively after being stretched.
Common blends and their uses:
95/5 (95% cotton, 5% lycra): Most popular blend. Excellent for leggings, fitted t-shirts, dresses, underwear, activewear, and children's clothing.
97/3 (97% cotton, 3% lycra): Lighter stretch, better for looser-fitting garments like nightgowns or relaxed tops.
93/7 (93% cotton, 7% lycra): Extra stretch and recovery, ideal for performance activewear and fitted leggings.
Cotton Lycra Fabric Weight Guide
Not all cotton lycra fabric is the same weight. The weight is measured in GSM (grams per square meter) or ounces per square yard. Understanding fabric weight helps you choose the right material for your project.
Lightweight (150-190 GSM): More sheer with beautiful drape. Perfect for flowy dresses, t-shirts, and summer garments. May require lining for some projects.
Medium-weight (200-220 GSM): The sweet spot! Not see-through and works for almost any project. Ideal for leggings, dresses, tops, and activewear.
Heavyweight (230+ GSM): More durable and opaque. Great for leggings, fitted pants, and garments that need extra coverage.
2-Way vs 4-Way Stretch
Cotton lycra fabric comes in two stretch types:
4-Way Stretch: Stretches both horizontally (across the fabric) and vertically (along the length). Most common and versatile for fitted garments.
2-Way Stretch: Only stretches in one direction (usually across the width). When cutting patterns, ensure the greatest stretch goes around the body.
Tips for Buying Cotton Lycra Fabric
Check the fiber content - 95/5 blend offers the best balance of comfort and stretch recovery
Consider the weight for your project - medium-weight (210-220 GSM) is most versatile
Test the stretch recovery - quality fabric should bounce back quickly when stretched
Hold it up to check opacity - make sure it's not see-through if that's important for your project
Feel the drape - lightweight fabrics flow beautifully, heavier weights provide more structure
Order swatches when possible to test fabric in person before committing to yardage
Sewing Tips for Cotton Lycra Fabric
Working with cotton lycra fabric is easier than you might think! Follow these tips for professional results:
Pre-wash and dry: Cotton lycra shrinks, so always wash and dry before sewing using the same settings you'll use for the finished garment
Use color catchers: Add color catchers to the first wash, especially with bold colors
Choose the right needle: Use ballpoint or stretch needles. 70/10 for lightweight, 80/12 for medium-weight, 90/14 for heavyweight
Adjust your stitch: Use a stretch stitch, narrow zigzag, or lightning stitch to allow seams to stretch with the fabric
Don't stretch while sewing: Let the feed dogs do the work - pulling on fabric creates wavy seams
Use a walking foot: Especially helpful when pairing cotton lycra with non-stretch fabrics
Watch for curling edges: Cotton lycra edges curl naturally - this is normal and won't affect your finished project
Perfect Pairings: Mixing Cotton Lycra with Other Fabrics
Our Solid Essentials collection is perfect for pairing with printed cotton lycra. Use solid colors for:
Neckbands and cuffs on t-shirts and hoodies
Waistbands on leggings and shorts
Color blocking on dresses and tops
Hood linings and pocket accents
Binding on edges and hems
You can also mix cotton lycra with other fabric types:
With French terry: Use cotton lycra for body panels and French terry for cozy sleeves and hoods
With woven fabrics: Cotton lycra makes an excellent lining for vests, jackets, and bags - use lots of pins and a walking foot
With rib knit: Combine for professional-looking cuffs and neckbands that maintain their shape
Caring for Cotton Lycra Fabric Garments
Proper care extends the life of your cotton lycra garments:
Wash in cold water to prevent shrinkage and preserve colors
Tumble dry on low heat or hang to dry
Avoid high heat which can damage lycra fibers and reduce stretch
Turn garments inside out to prevent pilling
Skip fabric softener - it can coat lycra fibers and reduce stretch over time
Wash dark and bright colors separately for the first few washes
Why Cotton Lycra Works Year-Round
Cotton lycra fabric is suitable for all seasons because cotton is naturally breathable and temperature-regulating. The varying weights and thicknesses make it adaptable:
Spring/Summer: Lightweight cotton lycra keeps you cool in dresses, shorts, and t-shirts
Fall/Winter: Medium to heavyweight cotton lycra works great for leggings, long-sleeve tops, and layering pieces
Year-round: Perfect for activewear, underwear, and pajamas regardless of season
Frequently Asked Questions About Cotton Lycra Fabric
What is the difference between cotton lycra and regular cotton jersey?
Cotton lycra contains 3-7% spandex/lycra which gives it stretch recovery - it bounces back to its original shape after stretching. Regular 100% cotton jersey will stretch but won't recover as well, making it less suitable for fitted garments like leggings or form-fitting tops.
How much does cotton lycra fabric shrink?
Cotton lycra typically shrinks 3-5% in both length and width during the first wash. Always pre-wash and dry your fabric before cutting and sewing to avoid surprises. Wash on the same temperature settings you plan to use for the finished garment.
What needle should I use for cotton lycra fabric?
Use a ballpoint or stretch needle. Size 70/10 for lightweight fabrics, 80/12 for medium-weight (most common), and 90/14 for heavyweight cotton lycra. The rounded tip of these needles slides between fibers instead of piercing them, preventing runs and holes.
Can I use cotton lycra for leggings?
Yes! Cotton lycra with at least 5% lycra is excellent for leggings. Look for medium to heavyweight fabric (210+ GSM) with 4-way stretch for best results. Make sure the fabric is opaque when stretched to avoid see-through leggings.
Why do the edges of my cotton lycra fabric curl?
Edge curling is completely normal for cotton lycra and most knit fabrics! The edges curl toward the right side of the fabric due to the way the knit structure relaxes when cut. This won't affect your finished garment - the curling stops once the fabric is sewn into seams.
What's the best cotton lycra blend for beginners?
A 95/5 blend in medium-weight (210-220 GSM) is ideal for beginners. It has enough lycra for good recovery, isn't see-through, and works for most projects. Start with simple projects like t-shirts or elastic-waist pants before moving to more fitted garments.
How much stretch does cotton lycra fabric have?
Cotton lycra typically has 40-60% stretch, meaning if you pull a 10-inch section, it can stretch to 14-16 inches. The exact amount depends on the lycra percentage and fabric weight. Always check your pattern requirements for recommended stretch percentage.
Can I mix cotton lycra with non-stretch fabrics?
Yes! Cotton lycra works beautifully as lining for woven fabric vests, bags, and jackets. Use lots of pins, a walking foot, and sew slowly. You may get small tucks or folds, but these are usually minimal and not noticeable in the finished project.
How do I know if my cotton lycra is high quality?
Quality cotton lycra should have consistent stretch in all directions, good stretch recovery (bounces back quickly), even coloring with no thin spots, a soft hand feel, and minimal pilling. If you stretch a section and it stays stretched out instead of recovering, the quality may be lower.
What's the difference between cotton lycra and bamboo cotton lycra?
Bamboo cotton lycra blends bamboo fibers with cotton and lycra, creating an even softer, more drapey fabric. Bamboo is naturally moisture-wicking and antibacterial. Check out our bamboo fabric collection to learn more!
Shop Our Complete Cotton Lycra Collection
Browse hundreds of cotton lycra fabrics including:
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