Knit fabrics are the foundation of comfortable, wearable clothing - from your favorite t-shirt to cozy sweatshirts, stretchy leggings to flowing dresses. Unlike woven fabrics that are made by interlacing threads on a loom, knit fabrics are created by looping yarn together (like hand knitting but on an industrial scale), which gives them their signature stretch and recovery properties that make clothing comfortable to wear and easy to move in.
With so many types of knit fabrics available, choosing the right one for your project can feel overwhelming. That's why we've created this comprehensive guide to help you understand the differences between cotton lycra, french terry, double brushed poly, and all the other amazing knit fabrics we carry. Whether you're sewing t-shirts, dresses, activewear, or cozy loungewear, we'll help you find the perfect knit!
What Makes Knit Fabric Special?
Knit fabric is constructed by looping yarn together in interlocking rows, similar to hand knitting or crocheting but done on industrial knitting machines. This looped construction creates fabric that can stretch and return to its original shape, making it comfortable, flexible, and perfect for form-fitting garments that move with your body.
Key Characteristics of Knit Fabric:
- Stretch & Recovery: Knits stretch and bounce back to their original shape
- Comfort: Flexible fabric moves with your body without restriction
- No Fraying: Cut edges curl rather than fray (unlike woven fabrics)
- Breathability: Looped construction allows air circulation
- Drape: Most knits have good drape for flattering silhouettes
- Easy to Sew: Forgiving fabric perfect for beginners
- Wrinkle Resistant: Many knits resist wrinkling better than wovens
- Durability: Quality knits withstand frequent wear and washing
Understanding Stretch Types
When shopping for knit fabric, you'll see references to "2-way stretch" and "4-way stretch." Here's what these mean:
2-Way Stretch
Fabric stretches in one direction only - typically side to side (horizontally). The fabric has minimal or no stretch vertically. Common in: sweatshirt fleece, some rib knits, jersey knits without spandex.
4-Way Stretch
Fabric stretches in both directions - horizontally AND vertically. This provides maximum flexibility and comfort for form-fitting garments. Common in: cotton lycra (with spandex), athletic fabrics, swimsuit fabrics, most legging-weight knits.
The Role of Spandex/Lycra
Spandex (also called Lycra or elastane) is the stretchy fiber that gives knit fabrics their recovery power. You'll often see fabric content listed as "95/5 cotton/spandex" or "95% cotton, 5% spandex." That 5% spandex is what makes the fabric stretch and bounce back! Higher spandex percentages (like in swimsuit fabric or athletic wear) provide more stretch and recovery.
Most Popular Knit Fabrics - Which One is Right For You?
Best for: T-shirts, dresses, pajamas, underwear, leggings, kids' clothing, everyday wear
Description: Our #1 bestselling fabric! Cotton lycra (also called cotton spandex or cotton jersey) combines soft cotton comfort with spandex stretch. The most common blend is 95% cotton / 5% spandex, giving you the perfect balance of stretch and recovery. It has a smooth face and slightly textured wrong side, medium weight, and 4-way stretch.
Why customers love it: Breathable, comfortable, easy to sew, versatile for almost any garment, holds its shape wash after wash. Perfect for beginners!
Weight: 180-220 GSM typically
Patterns perfect for cotton lycra: Almost any knit pattern! T-shirts, dresses, leggings, pajamas, underwear, baby clothes.
Best for: Hoodies, sweatpants, cardigans, joggers, casual dresses, loungewear
Description: Smooth on the outside, soft loops on the inside. French terry provides warmth without being as heavy as sweatshirt fleece. Usually medium-weight with 4-way stretch. Available in cotton/spandex blends, modal blends, and more.
Why customers love it: Perfect weight for layering, soft and cozy, great drape, not too hot but warm enough for cooler weather.
Weight: 240-280 GSM typically
Similar to: Lighter than sweatshirt fleece, heavier than cotton lycra
Best for: Dresses, leggings, cardigans, tops, lightweight loungewear
Description: Brushed on BOTH sides creating an incredibly soft, buttery hand. Made from polyester/spandex blend, lightweight with excellent drape and 4-way stretch. The brushing creates a slightly peached surface.
Why customers love it: SO SOFT (customers say "soft as butter"!), beautiful drape, easy to sew, doesn't wrinkle, wrinkle-resistant, perfect for flowing dresses.
Weight: Lightweight, about 180-200 GSM
Note: Slippery to cut and sew - use lots of pins or clips!
Best for: Sweatshirts, hoodies, joggers, pullovers, winter outerwear
Description: Smooth face, fluffy fleece wrong side. The classic fabric for hoodies and sweatshirts! Usually cotton/poly blend with minimal stretch (2-way stretch). Heavier weight provides warmth and structure.
Why customers love it: Warm and cozy, doesn't pill easily, classic sweatshirt look and feel, easy to sew.
Weight: Heavyweight, 280-350 GSM
Sewing tip: Less stretchy than other knits - easier for beginners!
Best for: Casual shirts, cardigans, dresses, cozy loungewear, long underwear
Description: Distinctive honeycomb or waffle texture created by the knit structure. Breathable yet insulating - traps warm air in the grid pattern. Medium weight with 2-way or 4-way stretch depending on fiber content.
Why customers love it: Unique texture, warm but breathable, soft and cozy, works for casual everyday wear.
Weight: 200-250 GSM typically
Bonus: Available in brushed waffle (extra soft!) and regular waffle
Best for: Workout clothes, athletic shorts, sports bras, running shirts, activewear
Description: Technical fabrics designed for performance - moisture-wicking, quick-drying, often with UV protection. Usually polyester/spandex blend with 4-way stretch. Can have textured surfaces for enhanced wicking.
Why customers love it: Keeps you dry during workouts, durable, holds shape, often UV-rated, professional athletic wear quality.
Weight: Varies - lightweight to medium
Pattern suggestion: Momentum Shorts pattern
Best for: Swimsuits, rash guards, swim shorts, athletic wear
Description: Nylon/spandex or polyester/spandex blend specifically designed for water exposure. Smooth surface, 4-way stretch, quick-drying, chlorine-resistant. Many are UV 50+ rated for sun protection.
Why customers love it: Purpose-built for swimming, dries quickly, durable, vibrant colors, professional swimsuit quality.
Weight: 200-220 GSM typically
Special requirement: Use ballpoint needles and swim-specific elastic
Rib Knit - Stretchy Structure
Best for: Cuffs, waistbands, neckbands, fitted tops, dresses, pajamas
Description: Vertical ribbed texture with excellent stretch and recovery. Used for garment bands or as main fabric. Available in 1x1 rib, 2x2 rib, and other configurations. Can be 100% cotton or blends with spandex.
Why customers love it: Superior stretch and recovery, ribbed texture, perfect for fitted garments and bands.
Also available: Cuff rib knit (pre-folded and sealed for instant cuffs!)
Best for: T-shirts, dresses, underwear, pajamas, baby clothes, activewear
Description: Made from bamboo-derived rayon/viscose. Incredibly soft with a silky hand, excellent drape, naturally moisture-wicking and antibacterial. Usually blended with cotton and spandex for stability.
Why customers love it: Luxuriously soft (softer than cotton!), eco-friendly appeal, naturally moisture-wicking, beautiful drape.
Weight: 180-220 GSM typically
Note: More delicate than cotton lycra - handle gently when wet
Best for: Dresses, tops, pajamas, loungewear, flowy garments
Description: Knit fabric made from rayon or modal (a type of rayon). Exceptional drape, silky soft hand, beautiful flow. Often blended with spandex for stretch. Lightweight to medium weight.
Why customers love it: Incredible drape, silky feel, flows beautifully, perfect for feminine dresses.
Care note: Most delicate when wet - handle gently during washing
Minky - Ultra Plush
Best for: Baby blankets, robes, stuffed animals, cozy blankets, baby items
Description: Extremely plush polyester knit with raised pile on one side. Ultra-soft, warm, and cozy. Usually has minimal stretch.
Why customers love it: Unbelievably soft, perfect for babies, warm and cuddly, makes gorgeous blankets.
Sewing note: Slippery and thick - requires patience and sharp needles
Best for: Sweaters, cardigans, winter accessories, cozy dresses
Description: Knit fabric with raised cable patterns or sweater-knit textures. Provides visual interest and warmth. Medium to heavyweight with 4-way stretch.
Why customers love it: Beautiful texture, warm for winter, looks hand-knit, professional sweater results.
Pattern suggestion: Portland Cocoon Cardigan
Best for: Special occasion dresses, leotards, dancewear, elegant tops
Description: Plush velvet surface with knit backing providing stretch. Creates luxurious garments with soft hand and rich texture. 4-way stretch, medium weight.
Why customers love it: Elegant and luxurious, soft and comfortable, perfect for holidays and special events.
Important: Must cut all pieces in same nap direction!
Best for: Men's swim trunks, board shorts, casual shorts, outdoor gear
Description: Quick-drying woven fabric (NOT a knit) with brushed soft surface. Water-resistant, durable, perfect for swimwear and outdoor wear. No stretch.
Why customers love it: Durable, quick-drying, masculine aesthetic, easier to sew than stretch fabrics.
Specialty & Textured Knits
We also carry many specialty knit fabrics for unique projects:
- Bullet & Liverpool - Textured surface, great for accessories and structured garments
- Ponte - Stable double knit, structured yet stretchy, perfect for pants and skirts
- Interlock - Smooth double-knit, more stable than jersey, great for baby clothes
- ITY (Interlock Twist Yarn) - Silky lightweight knit with beautiful drape
- Stretch Terry - Towel-like loops, great for robes and beach cover-ups
- Sherpa/Teddy - Fluffy, warm texture perfect for cozy outerwear
- Swiss Dot Jersey - Raised dots add texture to cotton lycra base
How to Choose the Right Knit Fabric
Consider Your Project Type:
Everyday T-Shirts & Basics: Cotton Lycra, Bamboo
Dresses (Fitted): Cotton Lycra, Bamboo
Dresses (Flowy): Double Brushed Poly, Rayon/Modal Knit, ITY
Leggings: Cotton Lycra (look for higher GSM), Athletic Fabric
Hoodies & Sweatshirts: Sweatshirt Fleece, French Terry
Joggers & Lounge Pants: French Terry, Double Brushed Poly
Cardigans: French Terry, Sweater Knit, Double Brushed Poly
Baby Clothes: Cotton Lycra, Bamboo, Interlock
Pajamas: Cotton Lycra, Rayon/Modal, Bamboo
Activewear: Athletic Fabric, Swimsuit Fabric
Swimwear: Swimsuit Fabric, Board Short Fabric
Winter Accessories: Cable/Sweater Knit, Sweatshirt Fleece, Rib Knit
Consider the Season:
Summer/Hot Weather: Lightweight knits that breathe - Cotton Lycra, Bamboo, Rayon Knit, ITY
Fall/Spring: Medium-weight versatile knits - French Terry, Thermal/Waffle
Winter/Cold Weather: Warm, insulating knits - Sweatshirt Fleece, Cable/Sweater Knit, Thermal
Consider Care Requirements:
Easy Care (Machine wash & dry): Cotton Lycra, Double Brushed Poly, Sweatshirt Fleece, French Terry
Gentle Care (Delicate when wet): Bamboo, Rayon/Modal knits, Minky
Special Care: Swimsuit fabric (rinse after chlorine), Stretch Velvet (careful with nap direction)
Frequently Asked Questions About Knit Fabrics
What's the difference between knit and woven fabric?
Knit fabric is made by looping yarn together (like hand knitting), which creates stretch and flexibility. Woven fabric is made by interlacing threads on a loom at right angles, creating a stable fabric with no stretch. Knits are perfect for comfortable, form-fitting clothing (t-shirts, dresses, leggings), while wovens are better for structured garments (button-up shirts, jeans, skirts). Knits don't fray but curl at cut edges, while wovens fray but don't curl.
Do I need special needles for sewing knit fabric?
Yes! Use ballpoint or stretch needles when sewing knit fabrics. These needles have rounded tips that slide between the knitted loops rather than piercing them (which can cause runs or damage). Regular sharp needles designed for woven fabrics can snag or create holes in knits. Use size 70/10 or 80/12 for lightweight knits, 90/14 for medium-weight knits, and 100/16 for heavyweight knits.
What does GSM mean?
GSM stands for "Grams per Square Meter" and measures fabric weight/thickness. Higher GSM = heavier, thicker fabric. Lightweight knits are typically 150-200 GSM, medium-weight are 200-250 GSM, and heavyweight are 250+ GSM. This helps you compare fabrics and know what to expect. For example, leggings typically need higher GSM (200+) to avoid sheerness, while summer dresses work great with lighter GSM (180-200).
Why does my pattern say "4-way stretch knit with good recovery"?
This means the fabric needs to stretch in both directions (horizontal AND vertical) and snap back to its original shape after being stretched. The "good recovery" part is important - some cheap knits stay stretched out instead of bouncing back, which causes garments to bag and sag. Fabrics with spandex/lycra content generally have better recovery than 100% cotton knits. Cotton lycra blends (like 95/5) have excellent recovery!
Can I use a regular sewing machine for knit fabrics?
Absolutely! You don't need a serger to sew knits. Use a stretch stitch or narrow zigzag stitch for seams (this allows the seam to stretch with the fabric), and use ballpoint needles. A walking foot can help feed knits evenly, but isn't required. For hemming, use a twin needle or zigzag stitch. Many successful sewists make beautiful knit garments on basic sewing machines!
Should I pre-wash knit fabric before sewing?
YES, always pre-wash! Most knit fabrics shrink at least a little (sometimes 5-10%) in the first wash. Pre-washing ensures your finished garment won't shrink and become too small. Wash in the same way you'll wash the finished garment (usually cold water, tumble dry low or lay flat). Pre-washing also softens the fabric's finish and makes it easier to sew. Always press fabric flat before cutting after pre-washing.
Why do my knit fabric edges curl?
This is completely normal! The looped construction of knit fabric naturally causes cut edges to curl toward the right side (face) of the fabric. This is actually helpful - it tells you which side is the right side! The curling won't affect your finished garment once seams are sewn. To minimize curling while cutting and sewing, you can lightly spray starch the edges, use pattern weights instead of pins, or finger-press seams flat as you sew.
How much stretch does my fabric need?
Check your pattern! Most patterns specify the required stretch percentage. To test: fold your fabric with right sides together along the stretch direction. Mark 4 inches. Stretch without distorting. If it stretches to 5 inches, that's 25% stretch. If it reaches 6 inches, that's 50% stretch. Most patterns need 25-50% stretch with good recovery. Patterns specifically designed for high-stretch fabrics (like swimsuits or athletic wear) may require 75-100% stretch.
What's the difference between "stable knit" and "stretchy knit"?
Stable knits (like ponte, some interlock, heavyweight cotton) have less stretch and more structure. They're easier to sew and don't require as much experience with knits. Stretchy knits (like cotton lycra, athletic fabrics, swimsuit fabric) have significant stretch and require stretch needles and stitches. Stable knits are great for structured garments like pencil skirts or ponte pants, while stretchy knits are better for form-fitting t-shirts, leggings, and dresses.
Can I mix knit and woven fabrics in one garment?
Generally not recommended for beginners. Knits and wovens behave very differently - they stretch differently, have different care requirements, and require different sewing techniques. If you do mix them, use knits for the main body and wovens for small details (like collar, pocket trim) or use stable knits with minimal stretch. Never mix stretchy knits with wovens in areas that need to stretch.
Essential Tips for Sewing Knit Fabrics
- Use ballpoint or stretch needles - Sharp needles can damage knit fabric
- Use stretch stitches - Zigzag or stretch stitch for seams allows seams to stretch
- Don't pull fabric through machine - Let feed dogs do the work
- Use pattern weights instead of pins - Prevents distortion during cutting
- Increase stitch length slightly - Prevents wavy seams
- Use ballpoint pins - Won't snag or create runs in fabric
- Press, don't iron - Lift and press rather than sliding iron
- Try on as you sew - Knits are forgiving - adjust fit as needed
- Use a walking foot - Helps feed both layers evenly (optional but helpful)
- Test on scraps first - Practice stitches and tension on fabric scraps
Natural vs. Synthetic Knit Fabrics
Natural Fiber Knits
Examples: Cotton, bamboo (rayon), modal, wool
Pros: Breathable, comfortable, soft, natural feel, biodegradable
Cons: Can shrink more, may wrinkle, can lose shape without spandex
Synthetic Fiber Knits
Examples: Polyester, nylon, spandex/lycra/elastane
Pros: Durable, wrinkle-resistant, holds color well, often more affordable
Cons: Less breathable, can pill, not as eco-friendly
Blended Knits (Best of Both!)
Examples: Cotton/spandex (95/5), poly/spandex, bamboo/cotton/spandex
Pros: Combines comfort of natural fibers with durability and stretch of synthetics
Why blends work: The natural fibers provide breathability and comfort while spandex adds stretch and recovery. This is why 95/5 cotton/spandex is so popular!
Custom Knit Fabrics
Looking for something truly unique? Check out our Custom Fabric Collections where you can find exclusive designs in cotton lycra, french terry, bamboo, rib knit, and more. Our custom fabrics are created in limited quantities with unique prints you won't find anywhere else!
Organic & Eco-Friendly Options
We carry organic and eco-conscious knit fabrics for environmentally-minded sewists:
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Why Shop Knit Fabric at KnitFabric.com?
- Huge Selection: Hundreds of knit fabrics in every type, weight, and color
- Quality Fabrics: We carefully curate high-quality knits from trusted brands
- Flat Rate Shipping: Know your shipping cost upfront
- Expert Customer Service: Our team knows knit fabrics and can help you choose
- Solids & Prints: Extensive selection in both solid colors and prints
- Custom Collections: Exclusive limited-edition designs
- Organic Options: GOTS certified organic knits available
- Designer Fabrics: Art Gallery, Riley Blake, and more
- Competitive Prices: Great value on quality knit fabrics
- Half-Yard Increments: Purchase exactly what you need
Ready to start sewing with knit fabric? Browse our complete collection and find the perfect fabric for your next project!
Still not sure which knit fabric to choose? Contact us - our team is happy to help you select the perfect fabric for your project!
