Flannel fabric is the ultimate cold-weather companion - soft, warm, and endlessly cozy. With its distinctive brushed surface and fuzzy texture, flannel has been keeping people comfortable for centuries. Whether you're sewing classic plaid pajamas, wrapping up in a warm blanket, or creating adorable baby items, flannel delivers unmatched softness and warmth.
From traditional buffalo plaid to modern prints featuring animals, outer space, and novelty designs, flannel offers endless creative possibilities. The fabric's loose weave and brushed fibers trap heat while remaining breathable - making it perfect for layering through fall and winter!
What is Flannel Fabric?
Flannel is a woven fabric made from loosely spun yarns or fine fibers that create a soft, fuzzy texture on one or both sides through a brushing process called napping. Most flannel is made from 100% cotton, though it can also be made from wool or synthetic fibers. The fabric features either a plain weave or twill weave construction, which is often hidden by the brushed surface.
What makes flannel special is the napping process - after the fabric is woven, it's brushed to pull the fibers to the surface, creating that signature fuzzy, soft texture we all love. This brushed surface is what gives flannel its exceptional warmth and cozy feel. The loose weave combined with the raised fibers creates air pockets that trap heat while still allowing airflow, making flannel warm without being stuffy.
Why Choose Flannel Fabric?
- Exceptionally Soft - Brushed surface feels cozy against skin
- Excellent Warmth - Traps heat while remaining breathable
- Moisture Wicking - Larger air pockets allow airflow
- Gets Softer with Washing - Improves with age and use
- 100% Natural Cotton - Breathable and comfortable (most varieties)
- Durable - Holds up well with proper care
- Classic Style - Timeless plaid patterns and modern prints
- Versatile Uses - Perfect for clothing, bedding, and crafts
- Perfect for Cold Weather - Ideal insulation for fall and winter
- Baby-Friendly - Soft and gentle for sensitive skin
- Easy to Sew - Works well for beginners and experts
- Cost-Effective - Affordable fabric with excellent longevity
Brief History of Flannel
Flannel is believed to have Welsh origins dating back centuries. The Welsh natives would have greatly benefited from flannel's warmth given their cool, damp climate. Their process of creating flannel included using leftover sheep wool that was separated through carding, spun into worsted yarn, woven into fabric, brushed to create the fluffy texture, and then dyed.
The plaid design we commonly associate with flannel can trace its roots back to Celtic traditions before the 10th century, although plaid is just a pattern design rather than being inherent to flannel itself. Today, Asia and Australia are the biggest producers of flannel fabric.
Flannel was also used during times of war in the United States to help keep soldiers warm and comfortable in harsh conditions. It eventually made its way into everyday wear when construction workers, lumberjacks, and railroad workers began wearing flannel shirts for their durability and warmth during long days of outdoor labor. In present day, flannel has become both a practical cold-weather fabric and a fashion statement, with classic plaid flannel shirts being a wardrobe staple for people of all ages.
Types of Flannel
Cotton Flannel (Most Common)
Made from 100% cotton and napped on both sides, making it exceptionally soft and breathable. This is the most popular type of flannel and what we carry at KnitFabric.com. Perfect for bedding sheets, pajamas, blankets, baby items, and cold-weather apparel. Cotton flannel is machine washable, gets softer with each wash, and is gentle enough for sensitive skin.
Wool Flannel
Made from wool fibers, this type of flannel is naturally flame-resistant and provides excellent insulation. Wool flannel is commonly found and used in European countries. It's heavier than cotton flannel and perfect for outerwear, blazers, and structured garments. Requires more careful washing (typically hand wash or dry clean only).
Synthetic Flannel
Made from polyester or blended fibers, synthetic flannel is often treated with flame retardants. While it can be more affordable, synthetic flannel is harsher on the environment and typically doesn't breathe as well as natural fibers. It may not soften with washing like cotton flannel does.
Other Flannel Varieties
- Baby Flannel: Extra-soft, lightweight flannel specifically manufactured for baby items
- Flannelette: Lighter weight flannel, usually napped on one side only
- Brushed vs. Unbrushed: Most flannel is brushed, but some varieties are left unbrushed for a smoother finish
Understanding Flannel Weave
Flannel is made with either a twill weave or plain weave, which is typically hidden to the naked eye due to the napping and brushing process. The weave quality matters significantly for durability:
Checking Weave Tightness: Hold the fabric up to the light. A tighter weave (less light coming through) will hold up better than a looser weave. Looser weaves are more prone to stretching, shrinking, and wear over time. Higher quality flannel has a tighter weave with more substantial brushed fibers.
What Can You Make with Flannel Fabric?
Clothing & Accessories
- Pajama pants and sets
- Pajama party pants (free pattern from Peek-a-Boo!)
- Flannel shirts and button-ups
- Shackets (shirt-jacket hybrid) - Peek-a-Boo has a great shacket pattern!
- Scarves and infinity scarves
- Slippers and slipper boots (Snowbound Slipper Boots from Peek-a-Boo)
- Lined pants (Trailblazer Pants can be lined with flannel)
- Nightgowns and robes
- Mittens and winter accessories
- Tote bags and purses
Baby & Nursery Items
- Burp cloths
- Receiving blankets
- Cloth diapers and diaper inserts
- Baby blankets and swaddles
- Crib sheets
- Nursing covers
- Baby bibs
Home & Bedding
- Quilts and throw blankets
- Bed sheets and pillowcases
- Throw pillows
- Kitchen towels and reusable napkins
- Placemats and table runners
- Holiday and home decor
- Christmas stockings
Frequently Asked Questions About Flannel Fabric
Should I pre-wash flannel fabric before sewing?
Yes, absolutely! Pre-washing flannel is essential. Flannel can shrink significantly on the first wash - some flannels can shrink up to 10-20% if not pre-washed. Always wash in cold water with mild detergent, then dry on a heat cycle to get all the shrinking out of the way before cutting and sewing. This also helps remove any manufacturer's sizing or chemicals. After pre-washing, iron your flannel before cutting to ensure accurate measurements and clean cuts.
Why is flannel so soft and warm?
Flannel's softness comes from the brushing (napping) process that pulls fibers to the surface, creating a fuzzy texture. Its warmth comes from the combination of the loose weave and raised fibers, which create air pockets that trap body heat while still allowing airflow. The fabric's moisture-wicking properties and larger air pockets prevent it from feeling stuffy or sweaty, making it warm without being uncomfortable. Plus, flannel gets softer with every wash as the fibers continue to relax and soften!
Does flannel have any stretch?
No, flannel is a woven fabric with no stretch. Like other wovens, it only has a slight bias stretch when pulled diagonally. This means you should choose sewing patterns designed for woven fabrics, not patterns designed for knits. The lack of stretch helps flannel maintain its shape and structure, making it perfect for pajama pants, shirts, and blankets that need to hold their form.
How do I prevent fraying when sewing with flannel?
Flannel has a loose weave which makes it more prone to fraying than tighter woven fabrics. Always finish your seam allowances - you can use a serger/overlock, zigzag stitch on your sewing machine, or pinking shears to finish edges. Also avoid seam ripping if possible, as this can create unwanted holes and additional fraying in the fabric. When cutting flannel, use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter for clean edges that will fray less.
What needles should I use for sewing flannel?
Use a universal needle in size 80/12 or 90/14 for most flannel projects. The slightly larger needle helps penetrate the looser weave without snagging the brushed fibers. Always start with a fresh, sharp needle - dull needles can snag the fuzzy surface and create skipped stitches. For heavier flannel or multiple layers (like quilts), you may want to size up to a 90/14 or even 100/16 needle.
Why do directional patterns like plaid require more yardage?
Plaid and other directional prints (like stripes or one-way designs) require pattern matching to look professional. This means you need to carefully position pattern pieces so the plaid lines match at seams. This strategic placement often results in more fabric waste, so you'll need to purchase extra yardage - typically 1/4 to 1/2 yard more than the pattern calls for. It's always a good rule of thumb to purchase extra flannel anyway to account for shrinkage and potential mishaps.
Can I use flannel for summer projects or is it only for winter?
While flannel is most popular for fall and winter due to its warmth, it can actually be used year-round depending on the project and climate. Cotton flannel sheets are breathable enough for some people to use all year. Lightweight flannel can work for spring/fall transitional clothing. However, for hot summer weather, lighter fabrics like cotton lawn, double gauze, or poplin are more comfortable choices. The brushed surface and insulating properties of flannel make it best suited for cooler temperatures.
How do I care for finished flannel projects?
Wash flannel in cold or warm water with mild detergent. Avoid harsh soaps which may cause fading, especially with darker colors like red and black. Dry on low to medium heat, or line dry to minimize shrinkage. Remove items promptly from the dryer to prevent deep wrinkles. You can iron flannel on a medium to high heat setting if needed. Flannel actually gets softer with each wash as the fibers relax and soften further, so your projects will become even cozier over time!
What's the difference between flannel and quilting cotton?
Quilting cotton is a plain weave cotton fabric with a smooth, crisp surface and no brushing. It's more structured and maintains its shape well, perfect for quilts, structured dresses, and items that need body. Flannel is brushed on one or both sides to create a soft, fuzzy surface. It's softer, warmer, and less structured than quilting cotton. Quilting cotton is versatile for year-round use while flannel is specifically perfect for cold-weather projects. Both are woven fabrics with no stretch.
Is flannel good for baby items?
Yes! Cotton flannel is excellent for baby items. It's soft and gentle on sensitive skin, breathable, warm without overheating, 100% natural cotton (hypoallergenic), and becomes softer with each wash. Flannel is perfect for receiving blankets, burp cloths, swaddles, crib sheets, and baby pajamas. Just be sure to pre-wash thoroughly to remove any sizing and complete shrinkage before sewing. The cozy softness makes flannel a favorite for both babies and parents!
Essential Sewing Tips for Flannel
- Always pre-wash and dry on heat - Removes all shrinkage before sewing
- Iron before cutting - Creates flat surface for accurate cutting
- Consider starching - Light starch helps manipulate fabric during cutting
- Use sharp scissors or rotary cutter - Clean cuts minimize fraying
- Purchase correct weight - Medium weight for clothing, heavier for blankets
- Finish all seam allowances - Prevents fraying on loose weave
- Use fresh, sharp needles - Universal 80/12 or 90/14
- Avoid seam ripping - Can create holes and excessive fraying
- Add extra yardage for plaids - Pattern matching requires more fabric
- Pin generously - Loose weave can shift during sewing
- Test stitch length - Standard 2.5mm usually works well
- Press seams as you sew - Helps fabric lay flat
Popular Flannel Patterns & Themes
Classic Plaids
Plaid flannel is the most iconic and timeless flannel pattern. We carry a wide variety of plaids including:
- Buffalo Plaid: Classic large-scale check pattern in red and black, black and white, or other color combinations
- Tartan Plaids: Traditional Scottish-inspired multi-color plaids
- Mini Plaids: Smaller-scale checks for a more subtle look
- Gingham: Simple two-color checks perfect for coordinating
- School Colors: Plaids in team and school color combinations
Modern Prints
- Animals: Dogs, cats, woodland creatures, farm animals
- Outer Space: Planets, rockets, astronauts
- Novelty: Smiley faces, construction vehicles, food
- Holiday: Christmas, winter themes
- Baby Prints: Soft pastels with gentle designs
Solid Colors
Perfect for coordinating with plaids and prints, or creating your own color story. Available in classic flannel colors including white, red, black, navy, hunter green, and pastels.
Flannel Brands We Carry
- Apparel Basics - Quality solid flannel in coordinating colors
- Riley Blake - Fun prints and baby-friendly designs
- Art Gallery - Premium flannel with modern aesthetics
- Euro Imports - Unique prints and quality construction
Flannel vs Other Warm Fabrics
Flannel vs Minky
Minky is a knit fabric with a plush, velvety surface. It's stretchier and plusher than flannel, perfect for blankets and stuffed animals. Flannel is a woven with no stretch, making it better for structured items like pajamas and shirts.
Flannel vs Fleece
Fleece is typically made from polyester and has no nap - it's a knit fabric. Fleece is warmer and more weather-resistant than flannel, perfect for outerwear. Flannel is 100% cotton, more breathable, and softer against skin.
Flannel vs Sweatshirt Fleece
Sweatshirt fleece is a knit fabric with smooth outside and fuzzy inside. It has stretch and is perfect for sweatshirts and loungewear. Flannel is a woven with no stretch, making it ideal for pajamas and structured garments.
Flannel vs French Terry
French Terry is a knit fabric with loops on one side. It's year-round versatile with medium weight. Flannel is specifically for cold weather with its brushed, insulating surface.
Peek-a-Boo Patterns Perfect for Flannel
Project Ideas for Flannel Scraps
- Reusable cloth napkins for the kitchen
- Makeup remover pads
- Coasters and mug rugs
- Patchwork quilts combining different plaids
- Holiday ornaments and decorations
- Fabric gift bags
- Hair scrunchies
- Pot holders and oven mitts (with heat-resistant batting)
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Why Buy Flannel from KnitFabric.com?
- Quality Brands: Riley Blake, Art Gallery, Apparel Basics, Euro Imports
- Classic Plaids: Buffalo plaid, tartan, gingham, and more
- Modern Prints: Animals, space, novelty, holiday themes
- Solid Colors: Perfect for coordinating with patterns
- 100% Cotton: Soft, breathable, natural fibers
- Pre-Cut Options: Available by the yard for any project size
- Fast Shipping: Flat rate shipping on all orders
- Fresh Inventory: New flannel arrivals regularly
- Bulk Discounts: Save when you buy more yardage
- Expert Support: Our team can help you choose the perfect flannel
Shop our complete collection of flannel fabric by the yard and create cozy pajamas, warm blankets, and comfortable cold-weather projects that get softer with every wash!
Questions about which flannel is best for your project? Contact us—we're here to help you find the perfect cozy fabric!